Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010
6

Dining Days

"[Ruth] Reichl brought a dramatist's sensibilities to the restaurant critique, reproducing snatches of dialogue and describing fellow diners as if she were a travel writer in a foreign capital. Reichl covered a broader range of restaurants than Bryan Miller, her immediate predecessor at the Times, conferring on Chinese restaurants, in particular, a status they'd never enjoyed before, and causing Miller to complain in a memo to his former boss at the paper, which was gleefully intercepted by the New York Post: 'How do you think she comes off giving SoHo noodle shops 2 and 3 stars? . . . SHE HAS DESTROYED THE SYSTEM that Craig, Mimi, and I upheld.'"
-Village Voice restaurant critic Robert Sietsema writes a nice history of restaurant reviews for the Columbia Journalism Review.

6 Comments / Post A Comment

Screen Name (#2,416)

Man, no kidding. Where does she come off? I only need to know one thing from a restaurant review: did they have Cajun Sparkle? If no Cajun Sparkle, they're off the list and I just go to a different Popeye's.

dado (#102)

Jeez…I'd hate to read what he says about Amanda Hesser.

La Cieca (#1,110)

I can't take seriously any writer who uses the expression "comes off."

Kevin (#2,559)

I know, it's "comes on" or "comes in"

katiebakes (#32)

He barely mentions Sir Bruntastic :(

Thank God for Sam Sifton.

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