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Monday, December 7, 2009

32

Gluttony, with Mary HK Choi: Tohato Caramel Corn

meowmeow!I mean, just look at him. Why WOULDN'T you eat whatever was in this little mogwai's belly? You know it's going to be amazing. And sweet! And just this once devoid of petrified baby fish complete with tiny skeletons and the beady eyeballs that you run the risk of meeting when you cop an Asian Bag o' Snack that you're unfamiliar with.

Thing is, Tohato's OLD SCHOOL. The packaging's been recently Japanthropomorphized but the logo and product's remained unchanged for decades. And the flavor profile's totally non-threatening. It's a Hi-Chew-level of challenging-the next level from being up on Pocky and Yan Yan. It's some Toblerone shit.

But just as Starburst is a pat, unimaginative, broad-stroke "fruit" experience if you've sampled the brightly masterful pastiche of top notes on a Hi-Chew, Tohato Caramel corn (available in O.G caramel, peanut, almond, and varying limited-edition milkshake flavors) straight MURDERS any domestic product in the non-popcorn, extruded, maize-based, sweet snackfood lane. A lane that at last lazy-ass cursory perusal ONLY included Pirate's Booty: Caramel.

PBC is aiiiiiiiight but for sure, veggie is punishment flavor, and the newer Sea Salt and Vinegar and Bermuda Onion offerings only spike hopes high enough to incite ANGER and white cheddar is palatable only because of the generousness of the desiccated cheesepowder coverage. At the end of the day, the stuff is all DIETFOOD and unmistakably related to those edible, starch-based packing peanuts: joyless. You should basically go eat a clementine.

If PBC is a chubby grub that curls tightly into a quarter-sized coil with a brittle caramel exoskeleton that shatters like crème brulee lid and digs into your molars to build up like stalagmites, Tohato's Caramel Corn is a newborn's pinky. It's EXACTLY the dimensions of bootleg shrimp you get in weird, mayo-based Euro airline salads or them tiny joints IKEA sells you on that one shrimp sandwich thing that is gross. The candied shell is much lighter here and cracks one million times at first breach and mixes in perfectly with innards rendered custardy by salivary amylase because this caramel has the magic ingredient of a GANG of esters, like eleven types of lipids, and a bajillion emulsifying somethings and most definitely transfat. And it has the added piquancy of being produced on equipment that TOTALLY processes tree nuts. Like, HEAVY.

The almond flavor (my favorite) is like coconut, toastiness, butter, caramel, SALT, eggycornyfluff and tastes more like the SMELL of NYC street vendors' "nuts for nuts" than the nuts themselves. They are available for A LOT OF MONEY at $2.49/2.82 oz. bag at H Marts nationwide. AND if you go here, you can download super mega HELLA cute Tohato Caramel Corn distraction wallpaper which is really where all these Japanese snack companies lay waste to earnest-ass American web sites, where the branding makes you feel guilty about feeding garbage to your children while 100% slinging non-food.

32 Comments / Post A Comment

josh_speed
josh_speed (#97)

'A gang of Esters' first made me think of some marauding grannies. This column is genius.

Mary HK Choi
Mary HK Choi (#1,469)

Ahahahha. YES. They're tough but they definitely need that door sausage thing to keep drafts out.

hockeymom
hockeymom (#143)

I want it ranked against Cracker Jacks.
Just so I have a baseline.

Mary HK Choi
Mary HK Choi (#1,469)

I know. I thought about it. But one is popped by superheating internal water in a kernel and the other starts off as a meal and is extruded then pressure puffed. It's texturally such a different ballgame which alters the flavor coverage and uniformity. That said, Cracker Jacks are WAY browner tasting.

DorothyMantooth

Case in point: Knowing that "brown" is a flavor.

WindowSeat
WindowSeat (#180)

So wait, they're like Candy Coated Cheetos? I'm out in the effing boonies and I'm lucky to get Kim Chee from the tired ORIENTAL GROCERIES store that can't be bothered to stock goddamn XO Sauce so this Tohato stuff is going to be like gold if they have it. *runs off to email friends in cities.*

Mary HK Choi
Mary HK Choi (#1,469)

YES exactly. They're like Cheetos except they're not as hard as the OG ones but not over-puffed like the puffs (do not get me started GIANT Cheetos because that shit makes me crazy). They're in between but texturally more like the puffs.

HiredGoons
HiredGoons (#603)

Giant Cheetos are an intellectual abortion.

DorothyMantooth

It's incredible how much those things look like little shrimp.

Also, your food writing is positively MAGICAL, Mary.

HiredGoons
HiredGoons (#603)

It's slightly unnerving - they look like those little shrimp in cups of Ramen.

Mary HK Choi
Mary HK Choi (#1,469)

thank you! I'm trying to do more because i love chewing. it's my favorite.

SquarePeg
SquarePeg (#1,098)

I am irritated as shit that none of these H Marts are in SF. Now I have to go wander around Japantown hoping to score.

Bittersweet
Bittersweet (#765)

There is one in Burlington, MA not half an hour from my house! How do you say 'Yippee!' in Korean?

BoHan
BoHan (#29)

5 miles from my office! In Texas. I am a psychic with Korean tendencies.

gaytheist
gaytheist (#929)

But I loooove those little fishies. Do they have a version with the fishies?

Dave Bry
Dave Bry (#422)

Anything that tastes anywhere near as good as nuts-4-nuts smell, i want some of. As you note, the nuts themselves sure don't. Also: pirate booty is for young children and really shouldn't be eaten by anyone else. Especially not the fathers of toddlers arriving home at 3 o'clock in the morning. Sadly...

HiredGoons
HiredGoons (#603)

Deez nuts.

Dave Bry
Dave Bry (#422)

Nice! Hired Goons wins!

gaytheist
gaytheist (#929)

Not even the new "New York Pizza" flavor Bootie??

iplaudius
iplaudius (#1,066)

The little almond nose is so cute.

BoHan
BoHan (#29)

I can't decide if my new wallpaper features a Christmas tree or a hippie Brownie. Lord knows IS won't be happy so I'm keeping it.

Natasha Vargas-Cooper

I WANT TO PUT THIS POST INSIDE OF MEEEEEE!!!!

When are you going to review Melon/RoseWater/Floor Tissue Lotte gum!?!? DOOO ITTT.

Kakapo
Kakapo (#2,312)

I have never been disappointed in an unfamiliar Asian treat. That is probably because I can enjoy food for interest value as well as for the actual flavor. Popsicles from New York Supermarket are a particular favorite - durian flavor! green bean flavor! peanut flavor! Hurrah! Also, not overly sweet.

Abe Sauer
Abe Sauer (#148)

May I introduce you to Haw Flakes?

Kakapo
Kakapo (#2,312)

Ooh! Ooh! After googling, I am definitely intrigued!

Kakapo
Kakapo (#2,312)

And they're not even in this invaluable little book:
http://www.amazon.com/Asian-Grocery-Store-Demystified-Guides/dp/1580630456/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260240755&sr=8-1

Mary HK Choi
Mary HK Choi (#1,469)

Wow. Haw flakes. Those are a blast from the past. Someone once told me they were made of crab apples. Had no idea about the Hawthorn thing. So weird what things taste like. Like how Jamaica (hibiscus tea) sorta tastes like cranberries.

Abe Sauer
Abe Sauer (#148)

Another great Gluttony column about Japanese treats from a Korean-American woman certainly in touch with the deep wow-wow-wowiness of Korean culture... And yet, JAPANESE food! I don't know what it all means but I bet somebody's grandma (great-grandma?) has something to say about it!

TerseNursePornstein

Does the shout-out to esters not merit a MANBOOBS tag? (CHILDBOOBS and BREAST CANCER: too depressing.)

Yeah, I'm Veggie Punishment Diet flavor up in your post, murderin' your fun.

iplaudius
iplaudius (#1,066)

Speaking of non-popcorn, extruded, maize-based, sweet snackfood, how do you feel about Bugles? The two sweet flavors I know are Churros, which I’ve seen, and Sweet and Salty Caramel, which I found online.

Peteykins
Peteykins (#1,916)

Oooh, late comment, but I have to know if you've eaten it with milk, like cereal. Mmmmmm.

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