When I was a boy on Beale Street, we had no electric street lamps. It was the era of the gaslight, and every evening towards dark, the lamplighter would come along with his cart. Frequently, night would overtake him as he proceeded slowly down the street, so that as you looked after him, he would vanish in the blackness, and you could not see where he was, but by the glowing light of the lamps, you could see where he had been. Now these boys have gone from us into the darkness where we can no longer see them. But when we hear a certain melody and rhythm, when we hear that soul sound — then we will remember, and we will know where they have been.

A church elder at the Clayborn Temple in Memphis gave a eulogy at the memorial service for the members of the Bar-Kays, Otis Redding’s touring band, that died with the singer in a plane crash in December, 1967 (As quoted by Stanley Booth in his essay, “The Memphis Soul Sound,” for The Saturday Evening Post.) The sentiment is applicable today, as Donald “Duck” Dunn, bassist for the Bar-Kays’ “older brothers” the Mar-Keys, and the legendary Stax Records house band, Booker T. and the MGs, died in his sleep after playing two shows on Saturday night in Tokyo. He was 70.

I first came to know Dunn from the movie The Blues Brothers, wherein he played himself, sort of, or close — he was the bassist for the band that John Belushi and Dan Aykroyd reassembled on a mission from God. It was Dunn who came up with the idea to play the theme from Rawhide in the key of A (because that was a “good country key”) when they needed to quell an angry, bottle-throwing crowd in the honky-tonk bar whose owner they had tricked into hiring them. It worked.

As Booth described him, Dunn, who had grown up in Memphis with MGs guitarist Steve Cropper, was “more of a good old boy than anyone at Stax.” But also “the only one who has been influenced by the hippies.” (That essay is really good. As are many of the essays collected in Booth’s book, Rhythm Oil.)

The MGs were an interracial band — Dunn and Cropper being white, organist Booker T. Jones and drummer Al Jackson being black — and so represented the nexus of country and blues traditions that has fueled Memphis’s storied and glorious musical history. In an essay in his book Mystery Train, Greil Marcus wrote of Sun Studios owner Sam Phillips’ thoughts after recording Elvis Presley’s first commercial release, “That’s All Right” in 1954. “…Phillips is perplexed. Who is gonna play this crazy record? White jocks won’t touch it ’cause it’s nigger music and colored will pass ’cause it’s hillbilly. It sounds good, it sounds sweet, but maybe it’s just… too weird? The hell with it.” In 1967, Steve Cropper and Otis Redding wrote “(Sittin’ On the) Dock of the Bay” together inside the converted movie theater that was Stax Records headquarters. “Soulsville, U.S.A.” it said on the marquee out front.

When I was in high school in New Jersey in the ’80s, the local alternative rock station, WHTG, would play Booker T. and the MGs while the DJs were reading weather reports or announcing upcoming concerts or whatever — because most of the MGs’ songs are instrumentals. This led me to buy my first Booker and the MGs album, a greatest hits collection, and also to associate the music with the mopey British post-punk WHTG specialized in at the time: the Cure, the Smiths, Echo & the Bunnymen, etc. That seems strange in hindsight, but maybe it shouldn’t.

In 1993, at the Garden State Arts Center, I saw Neil Young play a concert with Booker T. and the MGs as his backing band. It remains my default answer to the question, “What’s the best concert you’ve ever seen?” (Default only because such a question is so impossible to ever answer.) Something about the interplay between the raw, jagged style of Canadian Neil, who described himself that night as “the least funky man in the world,” and the smooth, Southern warmth of Booker T.’s organ and Dunn’s bass — I remember thinking that it complemented so well, each side of the collaboration filling in the empty spaces of the other. Late in the show, Neil pointed at Steve Cropper and said, “He wrote this,” and then they played “Dock of the Bay.” (This video is not from the concert I saw, but from the same tour.)

The next summer, I saw Booker T. and the MGs play their own show at Central Park’s Summerstage. It was a hot, sunny day, and people were dancing on their seats. The sound was so simple and straightforward — drums, bass, guitar, organ — locked in a groove, very little flourish. But the subtle dynamics were enough, and the music would build and build, and a sea of arms would rise higher and higher towards the crescendos. People were whooping and calling out. There was an older guy there in a sleeveless t-shirt who kept shouting, “Send us over the edge!” And they did — the tension of “Time Is Tight,” exploding into sweaty, exhausted catharsis.

It’s hard to overstate the importance of Booker T. and the MGs. Donald “Duck” Dunn’s bass lines run through so much of the greatest soul music ever made. Wilson Pickett, Rufus Thomas, The Staple Singers, Bill Withers, Eddie Floyd. And of course, other music that has come in its wake. The Jungle Brothers, Big Daddy Kane, Showbiz & A.G., Ice Cube.

And check out the beginning of the Jam’s classic “A Town Called Malice.”

That’s my jam. (Sorry.) And, yeah, I guess it shouldn’t seem strange to associate Booker T. and the MGs with with British post-punk. (Is that what you’d call the Jam, “post-punk?” Or the Cure, The Smiths and Echo & Bunnymen for that matter? Echo & the Bunnymen would be more new wave, right? I don’t know. I hate sub-genre labels. I understand their facility, but its always confusing and wrong.) Anyway, it shouldn’t seem wrong to associate Booker T. and the MGs with anything, I guess. They are monumentally great. Has there ever been a better house band for a record label? Has there ever been a better record label? I don’t think so.

Donald “Duck” Dunn was the bedrock. We will know where’s he’s been.

As it’s likely that Mike Bloomberg won’t get a fourth term — [pause for mild, uncomfortable laughter] — our time with New York City Parks Comissioner Adrian Benepe will likely come to an end next year. This may be the penultimate spring during which we can enjoy his good works. Despite that he’s lost almost a quarter of Parks Dept. staff over the last four years, and that he’s has had budget cuts for each of the last three years, many of New York City’s parks look pretty amazing. It’s bearded iris season! Right now! There’s flowers everywhere! And there’s smart, sustainable, well-sited plantings for shady areas and sunny areas alike. So as we do each year, particularly in spring, let us give thanks where thanks is due. And if a tree falls and kills you this spring, blame Mike Bloomberg’s budget.

[Photo by Charley Lhasa.]

Previously: Opinions Netflix Has Formed About Me During My 3.2 Years As Its Customer

Jon Methven is the author of This Is Your Captain Speaking, which can be preordered here. He can be reached here, or follow him on Twitter @jonmethven.

by Awl Sponsors

For Max Payne, the tragedies that took his loved ones years ago are wounds that refuse to heal. No longer a cop, close to washed up and addicted to pain killers, Max takes a job in São Paulo, Brazil, protecting the family of wealthy real estate mogul Rodrigo Branco, in an effort to finally escape his troubled past. But as events spiral out of his control, Max Payne finds himself alone on the streets of an unfamiliar city, desperately searching for the truth and fighting for a way out.

Presenting the Official Launch Trailer for Max Payne 3, which will arrive next week in North American stores for Xbox 360 and PlayStation 3 on May 15th and in Europe on May 18th. Visit the Pre-Order page for a selection of retail options. (Watch on YouTube.)

Guided By Voices (Classic Lineup), 1992–1996, In Order

by Jim Newell

85. The Ugly Vision

84. Cigarette Tricks

83. Demons are Real

82. Ergo Space Pig

81. Some Drilling Implied

80. Pimple Zoo

79. Lord of Overstock

78. Particular Damaged

77. Don’t Stop Now

76. You’re Not an Airplane

75. A Big Fan of the Pigpen

74. Unleashed! The Large-Hearted Boy

73. Auditorium

72. Kicker of Elves

71. The Perfect Life

70. Back to Saturn X Radio Report

69. A Good Flying Bird

68. Ex-Supermodel

67. Hit

66. Awful Bliss

65. Ghosts of A Different Dream

64. Take To The Sky

63. Yours to Keep

62. The Official Ironmen Rally Song

61. To Remake The Young Flyer

60. They’re Not Witches

59. Her Psychology Today

58. No Sky

57. Gold Hick

56. (I Wanna Be A) Dumbcharger

55. Underwater Explosions

54. Closer You Are

53. Motor Away

52. Drag Days

51. Exit Flagger

50. Office Of Hearts

49. Striped White Jets

48. Red Gas Circle

47. Lethargy

46. Blimps Go 90

45. I am a Scientist

44. Big Boring Wedding

43. Big Chief Chinese Restaurant

42. Hot Freaks

41. Burning Flag Birthday Suit

40. Redmen And Their Wives

39. It’s Like Soul Man

38. King and Caroline

37. Evil Speakers

36. Rhine Jive Click

35. Circus World

34. Weed King

33. Quality of Armor

32. Always Crush Me

31. Your Name Is Wild

30. As We Go Up, We Go Down

29. Mincer Ray

28. Cut Out Witch

27. Gold Star For Robot Boy

26. Esther’s Day

25. My Son Cool

24. 14 Cheerleader Coldfront

23. Bright Paper Werewolves

22. On the Tundra

21. Hardcore UFO’s

20. Chicken Blows

19. Queen of Cans and Jars

18. Atom Eyes

17. A Salty Salute

16. Buzzards and Dreadful Cows

15. Game of Pricks

14. Sheet Kickers

13. Strawdogs

12. Look At Them

11. Little Whirl

10. Watch Me Jumpstart

9. Smothered In Hugs

8. Metal Mothers

7. The Goldheart Mountaintop Queen Directory

6. Over the Neptune/Mesh Gear Fox

5. Alright

4. Man Called Aerodynamics

3. My Valuable Hunting Knife

2. Tractor Rape Chain

1. Echos Myron

Jim Newell is a writer in Washington, DC who is on the Tumblr and Twitter and writes political things for Wonkette, the Guardian and Salon.

“As pieces began to be set in place, Mr. Saraceno sneaked a visitor inside and up a twisty staircase about 20 feet above the roof garden. Some of the floors were transparent, and the walls were mirrored steel, acrylic or open to the air. Suddenly buildings, people and trees were upside down or sideways, sometimes almost spinning around from the perspective inside this giant futuristic construction.”
 — While I am slightly disappointed that it is not a Star Wars themed exhibit, I want to go see Tomás Saraceno’s “Cloud City” installation that’s being built on the roof of The Met right now. Relatedly (sort of), I had never until just now realized how much the Pretenders’ cover of “Roomful of Mirrors” (which I’ve actually always preferred even to Jimi Hendrix’s original) sounds like the U2 song “Wire” — which predates it by two years! Still, though, U2 is to the Pretenders as Luke is to Han Solo.

by Ben Choi

Vinegar is the classic rock of condiments. You know it’s in the house, and you know it’s kinda timeless and it’ll keep for years, so you keep it on the pantry shelf behind all those indie-label spices and sauces. You rock it a few times a year when you’re doing some household cleaning, but you don’t think about it when you’re trying to get dinner on the table.

Vinegar is so deeply ingrained in our history and culture, and so formative of our palates, that it’s easy to overlook and underuse. Human beings have been using it for about 10,000 years. Hannibal used it to crumble rocks that blocked the progress of his elephants through the Alps. Cleopatra used it to dissolve a fortune in pearls to win a bet with Antony. Heck, Jesus Christ was given a spongeful of vinegar on the cross. And it’s in our language. ‘You catch more flies with a teaspoon of honey than with a gallon of vinegar.’ And when some rowdy acts up, you don’t say he’s full of piss and tahini.

Indeed, vinegar is so big it fails — to catch your attention. The only exception to this rule is syrupy balsamic vinegar (not the good stuff below), which is lame the same way the Dave Matthews Band is lame[??]. Culinarily, vinegar is the flavor element that is inexorably linked to one of our primary taste concerns: acid level. Adjusting acid level is one of the most important things you can do to improve a dish because it informs the way the other primary tastes (bitter, salty, sweet and umami-y) present and interact. But because vinegar is so iconic in this role, we often fail to maintain a nuanced understanding of just how effective and useful it can be. Like how sometimes you forget that George Harrison is a really good guitarist. And it’s worth keeping in mind that, as an ingredient, vinegar is probably in the majority of condiments in your cupboard: mustard, ketchup, barbecue sauce, mayo, sriracha, et. al.

In the interest of counteracting our tendency to undervalue the classics, I’m spotlighting the particular qualities and uses of the small selection of vinegars that I use in the recipes below. These qualities are hard to describe, so I’ve paired each of the vinegar types below with a classic rock track that I hope will have a synergistically illustrative effect. Basically, I made you a mixed tape of distinctive vinegars and classic rock songs, along with kitchen tips/liner notes:

• White Balsamic — “Care Of Cell 44” by The Zombies: This vinegar is bright and juicy, coming in with a measure of psychedelic fruitiness up front, but with a pleasantly smooth, disciplined follow-through. Great in pasta sauces, in bean stews, and in marinades for grilling vegetables. What the Monkees should have been, really.

• Melfor Alsatian Vinegar — “Goodbye Stranger” by Supertramp (click there for a very heartwarming tap-dance school version of the song): This is actually a blend of spirit vinegar and infusion of honey and herbs that delivers low acidity in a medium-light bodied package. Complex but integrated, with melodious notes of caramel and coconut water, it’s best used in vinaigrettes, noodle broths, meaty stews and claypots. It handles a lot like rice vinegar, but with a breezy, Wurlitzer buzz.

• Champagne Vinegar — “Killer Queen by Queen: Straightforwardly crisp and balanced. The most flexible of vinegars, again a natural in vinaigrettes; use it, too, in soups and for dressing vegetables. It’s a trouper, a splash of whimsical dandiness and bourgeois elegance for your table, old chum.

• Sherry Vinegar — “Deacon Blues” by Steely Dan

: Darker and more pungent, this vinegar boasts a full-bodied richness that goes well with umami-ful ingredients. It’s an ideal deglazing agent for pan sauces and would provide added depth to gravies and cream soups. Textured and atmospheric; incredible virtuosity and precision laid down atop a wash of moral fatigue.

CHICKEN ADOBO

1 ½ lbs. Chicken thighs, bone-in with skin
½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
½ tsp. peanut oil
⅔ cup white balsamic vinegar
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup of chicken stock
3 medium shallots, sliced very thinly crosswise and separated into rings
3 cloves of garlic, chopped
2 large bay leaves
1 tsp. black peppercorns
additional ½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
additional ½ tsp. peanut oil

Heat both oils together in bottom of a large saucepan or small Dutch oven (you want a pan in which the chicken thighs will form a single layer along the bottom) over medium high heat. When oil gets fragrant and shimmery, lay thighs skinside-down; brown for about a minute or until you notice a small amount of fat from the chicken skin has rendered. Add the rest of the ingredients. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes.

Remove chicken and set aside to cool. In the meantime continue simmering sauce uncovered, and begin heating a cast iron skillet over a second burner at high heat. Remove and discard skin from chicken. Add sesame and peanut oil to skillet and proceed to brown now-skinless chicken. Just about a minute on each side while mashing the thighs around with tongs. This mashing action will squeeze out some of the braising liquid which will evaporate and provide a little smoky caramelization on the surface of the chicken. Return chicken to saucepan or Dutch oven and turn off both burners. Deglaze skillet with a ladleful of the sauce, scraping up the bits. Pour contents of skillet back into the pan with the chicken and sauce, give it a good stir. Serve with steamed rice.

RED KALE SALAD

1 bunch red kale
20 hazelnuts
2 tbs. dried cranberries
2 tbs sunflower seeds
1 small red pepper

Toast hazelnuts in a skillet over medium heat with occasional shaking and tossing. You want them to toast uniformly, until they’re very fragrant, just short the point where the skins are totally charred. Set aside to cool.

Remove and discard central stem from kale. Chop kale leaves into bite-sized salad pieces. Chop pepper into ⅛-inch matchsticks. Crumble skins off cooled hazelnuts and cut into thirds. Combine everything in a salad bowl and dress with AlsAsian vinaigrette just before serving.

ALSASIAN VINAIGRETTE

2 tbs. Melfor Alsatian Honey Vinegar
2 tbs. mirin
½ tsp. Chinese hot mustard
½ tsp. peanut oil
½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
¼ tsp. soy sauce
¼ tsp. toasted sesame seeds

Whisk all ingredients into a smooth emulsion in a small bowl.

PERSIAN CUCUMBER AND RADISH INSTANT-PICKLES WITH CHIVES

6–7 Persian cucumbers
8–10 radishes
½ cup champagne vinegar
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup of chives
additional ¼ cup vinegar for topping off

Cut ends off cucumbers and discard. Slice cucumbers thinly, into quarter-sized rounds. Cut radishes in same manner, but more thinly, dime-sized rounds. Chop chives as you would for dressing a baked potato.

Combine vinegar, water and sugar in a medium bowl, whisking until sugar dissolves. Add vegetables and chives to bowl, tossing thoroughly with clean hands.

Put the mixture into appropriately sized jar(s) and top off with additional vinegar. Seal jars and shake to incorporate. Store in refrigerator. Pickles should be good to eat in a few hours, but will improve over the next few days. You can keep them in the fridge for couple of weeks.

SHERRY VINEGAR SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS WITH PARSLEY AND SAGE

⅔ lb. shiitake mushrooms
1 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
3 tbs. water
additional tsp. extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic sliced thin
3 tbs. sherry vinegar
1 tbs. chopped sage
2 tbs. chopped parsley leaves
additional tsp. olive oil for drizzling

Remove stems completely from mushroom tops with your hands. Cut tops into ¼-inch slices. Heat oil to shimmering in a large, heavy skillet over medium high heat. Saute mushrooms for about 2 minutes. Add water and cover for about a minute. Remove cover and continue sauteing until mushrooms are just cooked through. Set shiitakes aside.

In your still-hot skillet reduce heat to medium and heat additional tsp. olive oil. Add sliced garlic and saute until slightly golden, about a minute. Return mushrooms to skillet and add vinegar, quickly and thoroughly combining contents of skillet. Shut off heat and stir in sage, then parsley. Drizzle with olive oil and salt to taste.

Previously: Gochujang, Habanero Salsa , Pomegranate Molasses and Fish Sauce

Ben Choi lives in the SF Bay Area with his wife Erica and dog Spock.

Guess what Hollywood’s last taboo is. Go on, GUESS!

“After eluding Schenectady police and state Department of Environmental Conservation agents for most of the day — with sightings of it in the city as early as 6 a.m. — officers stumbled on the bear around 4:20 p.m. near North College and Front streets. Schenectady Public Safety Commissioner Wayne Bennett explained that rudimentary detective work and the help of a few people gathered on Front Street led to locating the bear. ‘You don’t want to make people laugh, but we said, “Have you seen a bear”’ he explained. The bear was located about 25 feet up in a tree in the backyard of 150 Front St.”
 — The bear was darted twice and fell from the tree, but is okay. There is video. In other bear-related news, “A three-pawed grizzly bear that turned up in Denali National Park and Preserve last summer with a bloody stump for a right, front foot is back, just in time for the start of the tourist season.” The bear, dupped Tripawed (it took me a minute before I stopped thinking “trip-a-wed,” but I expect you’re not as stupid as I am) “doesn’t seem to have any problem getting around on three feet, and the wound appears to have healed completely…”

UPDATE: And here is some video of bear cubs GROOMING EACH OTHER OH MY GOD.

I MEAN. [Via]

Is this the most boring experiment ever? Sure, why the hell not.