Most summer produce has a cult of worship; there are those who wait all year for the few weeks of tomato season, those who will serve fresh corn with every meal, those who will gorge on peaches until the sweet-tart juice carves furrows into their faces like Grand Canyon erosion writ small. But there is one item which rarely if ever inspires devotion. I’m speaking here of the noble eggplant.
Many people do not like eggplant. Common complaints are that it is spongy, or bitter, or mushy. All of these are symptoms of improper cooking. Because, friends, when eggplant is cooked properly it can achieve something few other fruits [...]
Here is my end of summer/transition into fall recipe for you. It's good for a random household weekend dinner, and it's good for end of summer when you're like "ugh what is in this fridge?" It's sort of inspired by the brodo recipes they've been cooking at Brucie on Court Street in Brooklyn.
1. Italians will most likely be aghast at this. SORRY. I know, you perfected pasta. You people make gross desserts, so there. (Okay, sure, I'll give you cannoli.)
2. This isn't one of those braggy "look what I can dooooo" recipes! This is published not in the hopes that you'll follow it, but that [...]
This fall I found myself in a little Sunday night advice ritual. I would leave something half-finished in the kitchen, and then go sit down on the living room couch with my laptop and go to Facebook.
October 7, 6:17pm: “It's Sunday, so that means a cooking question for facebook. I have cashew chicken going in the crock pot – what's the best/easiest way to cook broccoli to go with/under it?”
I cook on Sunday evenings because this is the way I can manage to have meals for the week, leftovers for as many lunches as I can manage. It's a strategy I probably learned from the internet [...]
I already made this apple pie! Using, essentially, this pie crust, and then "throwing apples inside it" and "baking it." GAZE UPON MY CRUST AND DESPAIR. What have YOU done with your life today? Please don't go hungry. Bad things happen to people locked in houses who get hungry. Here are some tips, depending on the staples you purchased drunk and at the last moment yesterday.
• Got apples? Tarte Tatin.
• Got arborio rice? Risotto.
• Got pot? It's pot brownies.
• Got lemons? These lemon squares are A+.
• Got lettuce? Stir-fry for you.
• Cherries? Meet clafoutis.
• Plums? [...]
The mornings have turned chilly quite suddenly and so it is apple season! And so it is also tarte tatin season. Let's talk about this.
It is the easiest of all desserts, and yet the instructions for tarte tatin are always intimidating. Witness the struggles of our pal Deb over at the wonderful Smitten Kitchen. Back in 2008, she endorsed a friend's recipe, which is very good, because she'd ruined too many herself. Finally, last spring, Deb engineered a recipe of her own, based off Julia Child's. I disagree with both of them, somewhat! Maybe even with Julia Child! (Waits for lightning bolt to strike me down.) Where [...]
It's come to my attention that a request for bourbon salt has been made, and I feel that it's a safe assumption that if I don't take up this call to NaCl no one reputable will. Which makes me worried for those who wish to try some, who might otherwise be left to cast about, seeking out bourbon salt from sketchy characters and wandering into dark alleys at all times of the night and I already have enough to fret over. So here, I made you some bourbon salt.
Because I think of bourbon as stronger and sweeter than wine, I decided to go with a cup and a [...]
A series on things to make, eat and imbibe this summer.
You know what? Forget about groups and gatherings. Enough with the ever-faithful host to the hordes, the slaving over the hot grill for others just to watch them bogart all of your ribs. Deep into the dog days of summer, it's time to slow down and relax with a somewhat indulgent meal. Save it for one of those summer Saturday nights when you have nothing planned and nowhere particular to go. Sometimes a delightful summer evening requires nothing more than you and your sweetheart. And a huge hunk of beef.
Main: T-Bone Fiorentina Sides: Grilled ramps and [...]