A certain kind of cooking, brought to New York City by Eastern European Jews, typified by bagels, pickled vegetables, gefilte and smoked fish, is having a genuine moment, the pinnacle of which is, perhaps, the opening of the long-awaited, full-fledged Russ & Daughters Cafe. While the Times, not incorrectly, characterizes this moment as a "sudden and strong movement among young cooks, mostly Jewish-Americans, to embrace and redeem the foods of their forebears" in order to "embrac[e] the quickly disappearing foods of their grandparents," the trend also conveniently fits quite neatly into the current milieu of all fermented everything, which is why it probably seems so palatable to a [...]
"You want that bagel but that bagel is deadly so you scoop that bagel, honey, you scoop it like a bridesmaid at strip-a-robics. But. Can I just ask. What’s wrong with a nice piece of toast, then, or perhaps an English muffin? A bialy, in times of great need?" —Seriously, what is the DEAL with people who "scoop" out their bagels? It's revolting.
"I had a very important appointment with Tina Brown that morning, and I was racing through the cream cheese inventory so as to be on time." —As the Upper West Side home of H&H Bagels suddenly shuts (now one must go to 639 W. 46th St.!), it is not a terrible time to read Thomas Beller's account of being the inventory man at H&H in 1992.