Spring Is Never Coming Back


“On a recent day, it was warm enough to grill outside. So she put on some shrimp, then chopped spring garlic and tarragon, the first green plants she had growing. As a cheat, she added zucchini that had been grown somewhere else where it was warm.” There is no spring, only endless winter bleeding into an early summer, so of course there are no spring vegetables, except ramps, those false flags of spring, hundreds of pounds of them, hoarded for the monstrous “rare eater who spends January, February and March waiting for ramps,” who would put a child to death if they thought their liver tasted clean, earthy, and of a crisp fall night. No, there is no spring. Maybe there never was. Photo by David Marcel