Restaurant Critic Mean-Spirited, Entertaining

“Mr. White has said he engineered the dough to stand up to the rigors of delivery and reheating with no loss of quality. In that, at least, he has succeeded. Warmed up a day or two later, a Nicoletta crust is just as stiff and bland as when it was fresh from the oven.”
 — Pete Wells gets out his razor blades in his review of Michael White’s new East Village pizzeria, Nicoletta. The seafood atop the insalata mista is “as tender as an extension cord,” he says.