Why, yes, I am very hungry this morning, how could you tell?

“For dessert, sticky toffee pudding and a marvelous version of Eton mess, meringue slathered in lemon ricotta cream. There is also eggnog as interpreted by someone interested in the intersection of hallucinogens and psychotherapy, all folded egg whites and sugar: liquid velvet, ecstasy in a cup. A shot of Sailor Jerry overproof spiced rum is down at the bottom of it, a base of caramel beneath the cloud of white. It is either an antidote or a force multiplier. It may be both.
-Detractors can suck it: Sam Sifton is doing some bracing work in his new gig as Times restaurant critic. See also: “The Breslin is the sort of restaurant you end up thinking about a lot, not always pleasantly, staring up at the ceiling at 3 in the morning in cold sweat and mild panic. Yes, the food is good. But it is monochromatically good: it is 10 colors of fat.”