A series about foods we miss and our quests to recreate them.
I have no idea why the chicken wing was the food to make it out of Buffalo. I mean, I understand the appeal, but its ultimate success is baffling when you consider my beloved hometown’s other signature dish—the beef on weck, which, were this a right world, would be the Buffalo food on every bar menu. It’s a very simple sandwich: roast beef and horseradish, but it’s the roll that’s key. It requires kummelweck, which is hard to find outside of western New York, and that might be what's held the beef on weck back from world domination. [...]
"The quality of sandwiches offered to police during this summer's riots has emerged as one of the top complaints from frontline officers involved in tackling the disorder, a report has revealed…. Officers complained in 'vast numbers' about the choice of sandwich fillings from the catering teams, saying tuna, chicken and egg sandwiches which have a 'limited shelf life’ left them exposed to the risk of food poisoning and were 'disgusting after sitting around in a warm van'."
"They weren’t thinking about fusion per se. They were thinking about New York and approaching terroir, a French concept usually applied to the climate and natural harvest of a given area, in a new way. What ethnic foods had come to co-exist in, and define, the terroir of this city? The answer: Almost every kind. Their take on chicken fra diavolo gets some of its heat from sriracha, an Asian pepper blend. It sits on a slick of un-Italian yogurt." —Frank Bruni's article about Torrisi Italian Specialties in this weekend's Times Magazine starts out seeming like a profiley thing about a hit restaurant, but gets into a more [...]
The grease purveyors at KFC have sold nearly 10 million bread-free Double Downs since the conglomeration of bacon, chicken, and special sauces made its debut a mere five weeks ago. The "promotional sandwich" was supposed to be removed from the chain's menus on May 23, but executives — clearly realizing that the only innovation that can get as much ink as the Double Down is a potentially horrifying one involving a blended drink that's named after a pun on the old percussion term "chicken shake" — have decided to keep them around at least through the end of the summer.