The best route to Jumel Terrace is by way of a small staircase located on St. Nicholas Avenue just north of 160th Street, on the east side. Before you get to the garish teal awning of the adjacent supermarket, turn right and walk up the fifteen or so steps to the top. The ghetto behind you-the housing projects, the dealers, the 99-cent stores, the tinted-window SUVs roaring up and down Amsterdam Avenue and the (faggot-hating) iglesias pentecostales-will instantly recede as you are delivered into one of the city's most forgotten landscapes. READ MORE