The Big Dumb City After the Flood

“At first, Mermaid Flotilla seems like another tired variation on the ‘low-impact foodboat’ trend, down to the repurposed tug and biofluorescent strip lighting. But then you taste the braised mock bluefin tuna with lemon-tarragon crème fraîche. And while this reviewer has never tasted real bluefin, it’s hard to imagine the real thing could best this—there’s nothing mock about the intensity and flavor.”#