Tuesday, March 12th, 2013
28

My Dark Night Of The Sole

A few months ago I had what I guess you would call a milestone birthday—although given the deliberately poor choices I have made over my lifetime, pretty much every birthday at this point is some sort of actuarial miracle. In any event, this flipping of the chronology to a suffix with a zero put me in a somewhat ruminative state: Maybe, I thought, I should do something nice for myself, instead of something bad to myself.

Now, I have many poor qualities—I drink too much, I am callous and indifferent to the feelings of those around me, I am quick to anger and deficient in patience, I have almost no willingness to follow through on anything that requires more than minimal effort and I can't even work up the energy to feel particularly guilty about that, I will instinctively walk curbside when I am traversing the streets with a woman (apparently this is a sexist thing, which, THANKS A LOT MOM), I am petty and gossipy even about people I quite like, I privilege my own sadness much more highly than those who have much better reasons to be depressed, my first instinct is always to be cruel or clever rather than compassionate or concerned, I don't recycle wire hangers because it is a hassle to fit them in the same bag as the bottles and cans, I am probably more dismissive of HBO's "Girls" than I would be about a similar show with less supposed significance, I relentlessly mansplain, my sodium intake may very well lead to the discovery of "second-hand salt" as a thing, I blame other people for things that are almost certainly my own fault and I am terrible about returning phone calls—but I will say that I have never been particularly extravagant when it comes to attire. My wardrobe consists of whatever was on sale at The Gap last season, and I cannot abide the idea of paying more than two figures for a pair of shoes. It just seems crazy, right?

As a consequence, of course, my feet are KILLING ME. I mean, I am carrying a good deal of weight around to begin with, so it's asking a lot of $79 Oxfords to bear the burden of my poor dietary choices and aversion to exercise. So I thought to myself, you know what, you had a big birthday, why not get yourself a pair of handmade shoes? Now of course these things are super-expensive, and it's not like I was looking for Daniel Day-Lewis to make them, but we're still talking several thousands of dollars as an entry point. But why not? Don't I deserve it? (I don't, of course. I am pretty much a worthless human being who has inexplicably done far better than any just god would allow, which simply affirms my belief in the randomness and indifference of the universe—and this is not just me exaggerating for effect or anything…. I'm no fucking good. You know how you read about people who are super-depressed and they can't get past the idea that they're total drains on everyone around them and the world would be better off if they weren't in it? Well, those people have serious medical conditions and need and deserve help. I just suck, and even trained professionals would be all, "Well, I'm not supposed to say this, but you're right to feel that way." Still, there's something about a big birthday that makes you briefly consider yourself worthy of a reward.) Yes, I thought to myself, yes I do.

One other thing about me: I am terrified of the dentist. I have not been in such a long stretch of time that, not only would it be socially unacceptable to let you know the length between now and my last visit, even thinking about it on my own induces a kind of phobia where I need to focus on something more pleasant, like having my testicles crushed with a hammer, to resume functioning normally. Just hearing about dental procedures is enough to send me scurrying into the corner for the rest of the afternoon.

I mention all this because I was recently talking to a fellow who lives in my apartment building as we were waiting for the elevator. I'm not sure we know each other's names, but we've both been in the building long enough to have the kinds of superficial chats in which one engages while staring with one eye for the level to settle at L. We exchanged pleasantries about the weather and when I asked him how he was doing he said, "Terrible. I have to have a root canal tomorrow."

I visibly tensed, but he appeared not to notice, because he continued.

"This is like my fifth one," he said, not exactly proud, but not without a certain degree of manliness in simply having survived so many procedures.

"And it's not how painful they are that's the worst thing," he went on, each word a giant needle to my incisors. "Those things are fucking expensive. Couple thousand dollars each."

It is the rare moment in life when our actuality mimics the iconography of cartooning with near-exactitude, but as he uttered that phrase I am almost sure you could see, above my head, a pair of bespoke shoes floating off into the distance with a pair of Mercurian wings, replaced by a bunch of Dead Ringers-style tools and discarded teeth. That's where my shoe money was going to go, I knew… to root canals. And thus died one of the only dreams I had left.

Anyway, here are some tips on buying shoes. I guess if I'm sticking to my current price point I should probably take some of these into account.

28 Comments / Post A Comment

justjuice (#242,238)

but when do they get to the fireworks factory, er, handmade shoe makers?

rhp (#11,316)

My reaction to the photo in the GQ article is much like Balk's reaction to the subject of dentists, except possibly with more shuddering.

For the price of a couple of fillings you can buy a pair of very high quality Allen Edmonds or Alden shoes with Goodyear welt construction that are fully refurbishable. Properly cared for, shoes like these will last for decades. The may not be as "fashion forward" as the shoes pictured here, but for shoes that last damn near a lifetime, time-tested classic designs are the way to go.

No need to really jump all the way from $79 to bespoke prices unless your feet are very, very hard to fit.

ericdeamer (#945)

Good for you that you actually had enough money to spend on either fancy handmade shoes or dentistry. I just turned 40 and I don't have enough money for either and haven't been to the dentist since 2004 I think. I know, I know, indifferent to the suffering of others etc.

Dave Bry (#422)

I thought this was going to be about falsely-labelled fish. (Same diff, I guess. And I probably would have enjoyed it just as much. Which is quite a bit.)

City_Dater (#2,500)

Expensive shoes (so one's back and knees stop hurting) and dental care (so as to keep one's teeth) are pretty much the defining obsessions of middle age. But cheap sneakers and Jolly Ranchers are severely overrated anyway.

Mr. B (#10,093)

Welcome to adulthood, Alex!

Oh Alex. You have to take these things in stages. If you go from $79 shoes straight to bespoke, you will end up buying the wrong damn thing and regretting your purchase. Here's what you need to do :

#MANSPLAIN AHOY

1. Go to a store that sells a single brand of "benchgrade" shoes (made, on machines, by skilled workers with years of experience in hand-making shoes). I like Crockett & Jones (7 West 56th). For comparison's sake, you may also want to check out Alden (344 Madison) for a different look.

2. Get fitted for a pair of nice oxfords or derbies, plain black, calf not cordovan. They should fit right the first time (good shoes don't need to "break in", but they will conform to your foot even more over time). You'll spend in the mid-three-figures.

3. Wear them on and off for a couple of weeks. Let the insole mold to your foot — well-constructed shoes do that. Feel the distinct rise in comfort (and quality!) from your previous pair of shoes.

4. Get yourself some good shoe polish (Leffot's, at 10 Christopher St, carries Saphir products, which is what you want). Polish those suckers, maybe once every week or two. It's fun! Don't they look good with just a bit of polish? Yes, yes they do.

5. Go back to the store you bought your nice shoes from and ask to see their "handgrade" shoes. These are made with more manual work, but not fully by hand and not to your exact foot shape. Compare them to the ones you're wearing now. Hey, your shoes are already pretty fucking nice. Why not buy yourself another pair of benchgrade shoes? In brown this time. Maybe a brogue.

6. You've walked around in your nice shoes for a couple of months. Now go check out some serious rich-guy shoes. Get down to John Lobb at 800 Madison and look at their equivalent of what you're wearing. These are really extraordinarily good shoes. They will make them for you on a last that replicates your exact feet. But your shoes are already pretty great, and by now they look and feel even better than when you bought them. Consider : the marginal return in quality for every dollar you spend now, above the price you paid for your current nice shoes, is ever-decreasing. Do you need to squeeze out that last little bit of extra quality for an ever-increasing amount of money?

7. Maybe. But now you're informed enough to make that choice! Just avoid the weirdo colors or leathers — they're a pain in the ass to polish, and either you'll never wear them or everyone will think of you as "that guy with the weird shoes".

THUS SPAKETH A GUY WITH SOME PRETTY DECENT SHOES, THE END.

ericdeamer (#945)

@Gef the Talking Mongoose Rich People Things.

@ericdeamer : God, it's so true.

@Gef the Talking Mongoose Tried this. Got to step 1, removed shoe, proffered foot to helpful salesman, "I have high arches." He looked, brows ascending as high as the arch before him. "Nothing we sell here will help you as much as a pair of custom orthotics." All my good-shoe-money is now hiding inside whatever crap I can still afford.

@Krugmanic Depressive : Did you go to Alden? One of the lasts they build shoes on is their "Modified" last, which is specifically made for high arches. http://www.aldenshoe.com/cat_ortho_mod.htm

stuffisthings (#1,352)

@Gef the Talking Mongoose HEY SHOE GUY

So I have a few pairs of pretty decently nice shoes, but I keep wearing through the leather soles. Should this happen? (I walk to work in an Urban Environment, maybe 1.5 miles per day). And is it gauche to get rubber soles put on over the leather? Or should I just wear tennis shoes to work like my mom suggests? If that's the case, then what's the point, since nobody looks at my feet my while I'm sat at my desk?

stuffisthings (#1,352)

@stuffisthings (I kind of want to do this just so I can patronize the charming old-school shoe repair place located underneath my charming, old-school tailor.)

julebsorry (#5,783)

@stuffisthings Cole Haan Lunargrands. The sole of a tennis shoe, the upper of an adult shoe. Business on the top, party on the sole. My husband has like, 5 pairs of these things and he's hoarding them like they're Chateau Latour.

Hirham (#1,709)

@stuffisthings You can wear through the leather soles a lot faster the ground's wet; some people go in for wet weather shoes with Dainite soles or whatever. I've had soles resoled, and though the rubber is cheap and effective, it's not something I'd wanna do with my best shoes.

@stuffisthings : Do it, DEFINITELY. Rubber half-soles are totally acceptable and a good investment. Apparently the term of art is getting the soles "Vibramed" or "topied," which both sound dirty to me.

If you're like me and have big old camel feet, you may find that the toes of your nice leather soles wear out faster than the rest, mostly because you drag your toes into the pavement when you walk. A good cobbler can install metal taps — and this is the important part — -flush- with the rest of the sole. A lazy cobbler will hammer those ugly taps over the tip of the sole, but a good one will remove a bit of the sole at the toe and install the other kind of tap that is completely flush and unnoticeable. It doesn't make any noise when you walk, and holy God does it save on the wear. I get mine done at B. Nelson down on 55th Street, if you're in NYC.

IBentMyWookie (#133)

HAPPY 60th!

laurel (#4,035)

Going to the dentist got a lot easier when I discovered he'd prescribe me one or two pre-visit valiums.

laurel (#4,035)

Valia?

What you really need to do is find a dentist who makes shoes on the side (or the converse cobbler). Then you could get a nice two-for-one deal.

stuffisthings (#1,352)

You wrote this whole article simply to justify the pun headline, didn't you?

stuffisthings (#1,352)

@stuffisthings Oops this comment was supposed to go on Every Balk Post Ever.

julebsorry (#5,783)

The hovertext. It's classic.

Go to a dental school. I think it's about 50% less. It takes forever but they do very good work. I went to NYU dental school when I lived there (http://www.nyu.edu/dental/patientinfo/index.html). Their work is still in place as opposed to about $5,000 worth of work I had done about 3 years ago from a highly recommended dentist in LA that I now have to have redone.

Don't know of any cobbler schools though.

jolie (#16)

That URL is sublime.

Virtual_Memories (#3,040)

My 40th birthday involved a bunch of aspirational shopping, no dental problems: Got the Time

Abe Sauer (#148)

Aldo dude. Aldo.

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