Monday, June 25th, 2012

Chef Gets His Knives Out

"He has entirely bought into the establishment idea that table clothes, square plates, and stars define an objectively good restaurant. The value system he applies to Harlem is not one the community has ever accepted, and frankly, the rest of New York’s neighborhoods and food scenes are rejecting it as well. While the rest of us are busy winning over New York City with fistfuls of cilantro, funny glasses, and raw dining rooms, Marcus is up in Harlem plowing for the old guard—trying to carve out a new market for an outdated sensibility. He’s importing a concept on its last legs and trying to convince Harlem it’s new and worthy. Red Rooster might work better in a place like Las Vegas’ New York New York Hotel, a sorry attempt at recreating the city for people walking around with souvenir drinks. It doesn’t belong in Harlem."
Oh my. Baohaus chef and columnist Eddie Huang does not like Red Rooster chef and memoirist Marcus Samuelsson.

4 Comments / Post A Comment

deepomega (#1,720)

Everything Eddie Huang writes makes me want to open up a bottle of tequila and get puzzled with him.

CaptBackslap (#10,313)

So, Red Rooster is the kind of place that's good if you know what to get (the Swedish-inflected dishes), but it's maybe a bit too expensive?

I feel like it took way too many words to get to that, especially since most of those words were basically griping that Red Rooster doesn't match his personal conception of what a Harlem restaurant should be, and also MY RAPPER FRIEND.

Multiphasic (#411)

@CaptBackslap I think it's more that Samuelsson keeps declaring his own restaurant to be representative of Harlem, a Harlem he's making up out of whole cloth and hanging from the window so as to be primarily visible to those south of 110th st.

Lockheed Ventura (#5,536)

This is like Bill Clinton telling Obama he ain't black enough.

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