Summer Weddings, Belts, How to Pack and Tucking in Shirts
It's been a long road: we've talked about pretty much everything that could be considered attire of any form for men, really, from bags to shoes to ties and hats. Phew! So we're ending with four great questions from readers. You guys are the best.
Tucking It In
I am happy with many of my sartorial choices but if there's one thing that terrifies me it's tucking my shirt in. My wardrobe right now mostly works around this: in pleasant weather (when I'm dressing nicely) I generally wear either vaguely hip polo shirts or short-sleeve button shirts that look decent (if slightly saucy) with the tails untucked; in the winter I have an array of nice sweaters; for in between I have some lighter-weight pullover shirts. But sometimes I feel that a shirt with a collar that buttons in front (I guess this is a "dress shirt?" thanks to you I know now that "button-down shirt" is the wrong generic term for this, though some of them that I own are button-downs) is called for, and furthermore looking at myself with the tails out makes me look like an embarrassing man-child.
BUT! Is there anyway to tuck in one of these shirts and not look like a tool? I haven't figured it out. I am relatively tall and slim (6-1, 34 length pant, waist somewhere between 32 and 34, depending on the brand and/or my current fitness level) BUT like many dudes who like fatty foods and don't work obsessively on their ab crunches, I have a bit of a paunch above the waist—I wouldn't call it a "gut" per se but it definitely sticks out a bit. This seems to only be accentuated by the way shirts poof out around the waist when you tuck them in. Is there some non-poofy way to do this that I'm just not getting? How much of your shirt tails are you supposed to stuff into your pants?
Anyway, this is turning into more a plea for help for my manorexia than an actual request for fashion advice, but I am still interested in your take. Alternately, maybe non-tucked-in button shirts aren't the signifier of immaturity that I imagine? I just got a couple J Crew fitted tailored fit dress shirts (sale at the outlets!) and got them in a medium instead of my usual large and they look a little snappier untucked, I think. (Of course, with them I worry whether their pastel hues make me look like a monstrous superpreppie, but that's a story for another day.) Thanks for any advice you might offer!
I'm a little worried about your manorexia, not gonna lie!
So, this is a matter of taste. Loose shirttails can look sloppy or charming, gross or cute.
Basically, if a shirt hangs down in front of the fly of your pants, it's a disaster. Because you'll look all weird and bumpy and stuff, usually. An untucked shirt that stops a couple of inches below the belt can work; but I also find that actually often untucked shirts accentuate a gut. (Also: ties help you feel less chunky!)
I like a square-cut shirt tail for untucked shirts. That way it's not all weird and schloopy. (Not a word.)
You've made the most important move already in dress shirts: SHIRTS THAT FIT. Yeah, why were you buying large shirts? This is a thing dudes do all the time and it's annoying! It's like all those ladies who are running around with the wrong bra size in those stories we read every six months in some magazine. Can you button the top button? Do the cuffs land properly at the top of your hands? CONGRATS, YOUR SHIRT FITS. No need to go bigger!
As for the rest of it? You just gotta feel right. Do you feel like your shirt is doing something dumb? Then you're probably wearing it wrong.
And here is how you tuck in a shirt.
1. Put on your shirt, button it up, put on a tie if you're doing such, etc.
2. Unbuckle, unbutton, unzip and pull your pants down to your knees. (Heyyyyyy!)
3. Pull your shirt down tight over your underwear.
4. Pull your pants back up, with the shirt underneath the pants. (I KNOW RIGHT?)
5. Zip, button, buckle, etc.
RIGHT?
This sounds obvious? But yeah, don't stuff your shirt into your pants, it goes wrong. And if you sort of have to fold it about in the back? Your shirts are too big. (Go to Valentino!)
Summer Weddings
I need some advice.
I have a dark gray/black suit from a couple years ago. I don't think that really goes out of style (does it? AHHHH being a semi-schlubby straight man is SO TOUGH sometimes). Have any color suggestions for a shirt/tie if I'm going to an afternoon wedding, night reception with a preppy crowd.
Then, probably the bigger issue: I have a dark gray sports coat. I don't really have a lot of money, so I'd like to be able to use it, but, it being fairly dark and all, what can I do to make it fit the season/current style trends better? Color or fabric suggestions for shirt/pants, even just a general place to start would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit overwhelmed.
Don't be overwhelmed! It's going to be okay. But… an AFTERNOON WEDDING in SUMMER???? Yes, your dark gray/black suit certainly does go out of style.
This is what people are going to be wearing (DEPENDING on the variety of dress that's specified on the invitation):

But you never know! Here's what you do: you should also call up some bros that you know who are going and ask what they are wearing. Boys are scared to talk to boys in this way! Make it funny. I mean, it's easy to say, "Uh, hey, what the heck do I wear to the wedding of Mikey and that harlot, am I right?" (I'm kidding, Mikey's fiancé, we all know he's the harlot.)
For a wedding, I really feel like a suit is in order, unless the invite says like "come as a carnie" or "super casual by the lake," although you can wear a blue blazer with tan pants? Or vice versa? But… it's a wedding. So think cotton. (When you're older, you'll go linen.) Preppy. Joyous. GO TO J PRESS OR BROOKS BROTHERS IMMEDIATELY. J Press is often cheaper. Brooks Brothers runs about $500 in summer suits, which may be more than you want to spend now.
ALSO PRO CHEAP TIP: Tokyo7 in the East Village always has some very nice previously owned suits. Very few summer suits usually, but you never know! (Get them cleaned!)
Going Places
Sometimes I have to go on business trips and I'll stay somewhere for several days and I'll need to wear nice clothes. What's the best way to travel with blazers? Do I have to carry that dumb bag with me? Is there another way to do it?
Ooh, business trips! The best possible solution is: only bring one blazer and wear it on the plane. Mmm hmm. But if you've got multiple meetings or need suits, the garment bag is the only way to roll. Sorry! I know, it's so weird, it makes you feel like an Olde Time Traveling Salesman or something. I always feel like a grumpy dad.
BONUS THOUGH: HOW TO PACK!
1. Lay out your pants.
2. Lay out your shirts.
3. Tuck in the shirt arms, and fold the shirts in half on a vertical line.
4. Lay the folded shirts across the pants, forming a cross.
5. Fold the pants over the shirts.
6. Fold the shirts over the pants.
7. Slide this square of clothing into a carry-on bag!
BLAMMO. DID I JUST RUIN YOUR MIND??? (To be fair, my life changed when someone showed me this!)
Beltless Nation
When is it okay to not wear a belt?
• Going out for coffee before showers.
• In gym shorts or other pants without belt loops, including swimsuits and beach causal wear.
• When you are wearing suspenders, obvs, Clarence Darrow!
• When you slept over at someone's house and they stole your belt and you had to run for your life.
• When you get arrested and they take away your belt. Which they do! So don't get arrested!
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Also. This should be obvious, but it happens. If you are wearing a tuxedo that has belt loops, you are not wearing a tuxedo. I also would argue certain kinds of suits you wear on summer Thursdays do not require a belt. Last. I would argue that unless you are IN the rodeo, tucking a shirt into your jeans is a generally risky proposition.
@CatsInBags It also sort of depends on the shape of your body. I'm somewhat short-waisted, so untucked shirts frequently look too long. I tuck in almost everything. Although I do agree that leaving it untucked is acceptable if it fits correctly.
Garment bags are almost uniformly terrible: they're a pain to pack, they almost never fit in the overhead without being a dick about it, and your stuff comes out wrinkled anyway. If you're flying on business, and need a suit that doesn't look like it came out of a vending machine, there's only one way to go: http://www.skyroll.com/garment-bag/
@Astigmatism Mind blown, AGAIN! Does this thing really work?
I don't currently have a garment bag, but frequently have to tote a suit or two on business trips. I've tried folding them inside of the zippered bags they come in and laying them flat inside of a rollerboard, but it always fails to some extent.
@Clarence Rosario It's not apparently available online, but back in the fall I bought a garment bag by Muji (multiple NYC locations) for $85 that is extra compact (two suits max) and justbarely fits under the seat in front of you. So that might be an option, if they have any left in stores.
@Clarence Rosario I hang my garment bag in the First Class cabin coat rack (I am of course in coach). IS THIS WRONG?
@Astigmatism : That is pretty hot, and damn I may have to get one. But seriously, don't you people ever just ask your tailor? Here's the method my guy taught me years and years ago, and damn if it doesn't achieve the impossible : a folded suit jacket that doesn't wrinkle.
What you do is you invert one shoulder, folding the padding inside-out so that half the jacket is entirely lining-out except for the sleeve. Then you take the other half of the jacket and fold it into the inverted ha… you know what, I'm just going to let a guy in a ridiculous shirt show you how to do it. http://www.1bag1world.com/blog/2009/8/14/jacket-folding-video-from-till.html
I have used this technique on many suits and many jackets and even a damn winter coat and IT WORKS. IT IS MAGIC. YOU WILL BE AS A GOD AMONG MEN.
CHOIRE. Why you gotta tease me with references to the time you were arrested while wearing BIG PANTS?
@jolie I was in the hoosegow once (in my youth) and they gave me an orange jumper that was made for someone about 5' 2" and I'm 6' 1". I looked like I was being hung from my crotch. The sartorial indignities of being in the system cut the deepest.
@zidaane: The indignities, or the inseam?
(Sorry, couldn't resist.)
Also, is there a way for me to email summer suit-needing guy without Choire being part of it because he will MURDER me over the advice I want to give but I also really want to give it because I think it's good?
@jolie Leave it here! He's around.
@Choire Sicha I wouldn't DREAM of saying it publicly because you would SHAME me so hard, Papa. SO HARD. (Heh.)(Not to worry, he found his way to me.)
@jolie Oh God, does your advice involve madras??
@DorothyMantooth Ha! No, but I mean YES! No it involved a store that Choire would NOT approve of but that truly is a good source for decent, lower priced suits for guys who need them only for occasional wear and don't have/want to drop a lot of money.
@jolie And you won't share with the hoi polloi? Is its first name Century, last name 21, by chance?
@Lockheed Ventura No, Choire wouldn't yell over Century 21. You can email me though! cleaning at thehairpin dot com
Holy shit, you did blow my mind on the shirt-pant origami packing thingy!
However, for other stuff (jeans, t-shirts, shorts, pajamas, swim and gym wear), I highly recommend rolling them up. It saves space and wrinkles.
@Clarence Rosario That may very well be the second most-useful thing I've read on the Awl. The first being something something something about cocktails.
Great, you just gave me manorexia AND AFTER THAT ABOMINATION THAT JUST RAN ON YOUR WEB SITE NO LESS.
Tokyo7 is an essential (if overpriced) institution.
this was awesome. more please.
Dear Business Traveler: Not that I would DREAM of telling you to not follow Choire's advice, but, if for whatever reason you've travelled somewhere and you didn't pack your jacket or other nice clothes in a garment bag and they're all wrinkly … well, you know about the hotel shower trick, right? Hang your clothes up on the towel rack in the hotel bathroom, turn on the shower set to as hot as it will go, close the door, then go hang out at the hotel bar or watch pay-per-view porn or whatever for a few hours. Most of the wrinkles will steam out nicely.
@jfruh I am an aficionado of the "bachelor press".
@jfruh Or you could use the iron that the hotel provides and not waste all of that water/energy!
does no one iron any more?!?!
@roboloki @jfruh You can also lay the clothes flat on the carpet and then turn the rooms dresser upside down on top of the outfit overnight. To add extra weight put the mattress and bedding on as well and then sleep on that giant pile.
@zidaane Have the Gideons on speed dial.
@zidaane: This is fantastic! I'm throwing out my iron immediately. Though I have hardwood floors – will it still work? Guess I'll find out.
@ejcsanfran Yes pull up the floors and pile them on.
I wish there were a professional dress code at my company, just so I'd have a reason to buy more summer suits. As it stands, the only one I own is a wedding staple.
@BadUncle same. I bought my only suit for the job interview and now I don't even wear it to weddings since the pant legs are of the floppy variety. Barf.
Depending on the shirt and your torso, you miiight be able to have a tailor take in a larger shirt (if it's something you really like). It's not going to be that expensive, maybe $10-$15?
I always look for square tails now in any vaguely casual shirt off the rack. All this messing around with sizes makes shirts with long tails look like a tent.
@Butterscotch Stalin this was the problem I had with Choire's remark about the shirt being too big if you have to tuck it around. Every off-the-rack shirt I've ever owned (which is to say, every shirt I've ever owned) was too big in the waist if it fit in the shoulders, and too small in the shoulders if it fit in the waist. And I'm not spending fifteen bucks to get a $30 sport shirt tailored.
@SeanP I've gotten $30 (discounted) shirts and pants tailored. Spending a little more means I'm going to wear them more often and get more value out of them. And something for me that really makes the price worth it is simply not feeling uncomfortable, even if it's just not thinking "I look like a total doof!" all day.
The guys know clothes, so you just ask them if it's going to be worth it. They don't enjoy working on crappy clothes. And this is probably a really racially privilege-y thing to say, but the guys I go to are South Asian. Their sales acumen is a lot more subtle. And a tailor's shop doesn't have a lot of walk-in traffic, so if you have time, you can really talk. You might even get a better deal going to a Hispanic-owned tailor, since (this is just a guess) a lot of their work is probably taking in cavernous Yanqui-styled clothes. I'm going to try one soon for some pant alterations.
And if you're ready to move up to the next level, Hong Kong tailored shirts aren't that expensive! Somewhere between $60-$100 each if you buy three or more, depending on the fabric. It's because they are actually sewn in Hong Kong (Kowloon probably, but whatever). And to be honest, I still haven't taken the plunge yet, but the thought of all the tattersalls and herringbone and windsor check under varsity collars as I can pay for… *sigh* It might give Choire an embolism, but who cares.
Clarification: All the alterations are done in-house, so it only takes about 3 days.
What is it with guys wearing shirts that are several sizes too large? All over town I see men wearing dress shirts where the yoke is hanging an inch or two (or more!) below the shoulder. Isn't it evident upon looking in the mirror that your shirt doesn't fit? This is one of my many
pet-animal-companion-peeves.@ejcsanfran I blame the RAP MUSIC.
@ejcsanfran I think maybe men are just embarrassed to try on clothings? They just think, "hey, I'm kinda tall, should probably get a large. Boom! Shopping accomplished!"
Also I would just like to say that I wholeheartedly endorse Choire's tucking method. I do it every day! Really works!
@ejcsanfran I used to be that guy. I finally got tired of looking like I was wearing a shopping bag and got shirts that fit.
The day-ceremony, evening-reception issue kills me ALL THE TIME. I am neurotic about what is "appropriate" at various times of day, but I'm not gay enough to do a costume change between events. Consequently, I'm almost always wearing a three-season blue suit with a bright, solid silk tie, white dress shirt with cuff knots (instead of links) and tan-but-still-dressy shoes to weddings. This makes me sad because I want to be wearing a linen jacket and eccentric bowtie. :(
I do try on my shirts for size but I find with a standard department store dress shirt that when it fits in the neck and arms, it is all poofy at the waist when tucked in — which is weird since I'm actually sort of paunchy and pear-shaped? — so I often make a square pleat at the back (by pinching in about an inch of fabric 1/3 from each side). I think it looks just dandy with a jacket, but is this technically Doing It Wrong?
@stuffisthings That is correct. It's what is called a military tuck. You will pass inspection.
@stuffisthings Yes! In shirts that fit my neck, I always end up with [seemingly] extra shirt about the waist and hips and I have no idea what to do with it. It's not like I'm in terrific shape, though I'm not fat either. My hat size is sort of large so maybe my neck is just too big from holding up the gigantic melon on top of it? Or maybe I need to find a place that sells decent shirts that are cut differently (and then some money to pay for them).
@MythReindeer Well I can now recommend the 'military tuck' in reasonably good faith. Now, can someone inform me why here in Europe it is literally impossible to find pants with a 36" waist, which isn't even that big really? Whoever is actually buying H&M's selection of 30/36 jeans, they're NOT the dudes I see waddling around Birmingham, that's for sure…
@stuffisthings I have the same problem, and re: military tuck – ur doin it rite.
Can we talk more about suspenders? They are the most awesome things EVER.
@cherrispryte my thing with suspenders is that I think they're fantastic on pants that are made for them – your tuxedo type pants with that sort of unconstructed waist. Regular pants (with a waist and belt loops) – not so keen on suspenders there.
WAIT! Isn't it totally against the rules to wear a button-down collar under a blazer? I thought that's what we laughed at Scott Brown for doing. Count me confused.
@wb I'm doing it today. Breakin' all the rules. Come 'n get me, copper!
Really, I find it perfectly preppy and appropriate. Would avoid with suits, but some fellas can get away with that, even.
Re: linen. Probably won't be wearing it when I'm older, because 1) any older and I'd be dead, 2) linen costs a damn fortune, and 3) it starts looking wrinkly and crappy about 5 seconds after you put it on.
Wow, Choire, you've convinced me. I've got a summer wedding to go to – my sister-in-law's, the one who once sent you what you called the funniest resume you ever read – and I was wondering what to wear. It's off to Brooks Bros.
On tucking in shirts… I guess I'm the only guy who puts his dress shirt on first and then puts his pants on after the shirt. My dressing order: undergarments, dress shirt, pants, tie, socks and jacket.
@Suho fwiw i endorse this method but i would move socks into the underwear category and put them on before pants.
@roboloki: Actually, I do that during the winter, put the socks on first. Not so much in warmer weather. I can see the logic in grouping socks with underwear, though.
Why not linen for the younger set at a wedding?