6
"THERE are two remarkable things going on at Ciano, the casual, new-style Italian restaurant that Shea Gallante opened a few months ago on East 22nd Street. The first is Mr. Gallante’s food, which is ambitious, beautiful and flavor packed, a kind of Italian home cooking made grand and attractive, rich as Berlusconi, not as oily."
—Oh, Sam Sifton, don't you ever change.
TAGS: BALK AND SIFTON SITTING IN A TREE, ITALIAN THINGS, MANLOVE, OIL OF SILVIOLAY, NEW YORK TIMES, COY SMILES
I'm sure Silvio would also not object to being described as "mbitious, beautiful and flavor packed."
He certainly enjoys extra virgins.
OhmyGod, this line:
"The maître d’hôtel is Jonathan Gilbert, who used to run the floor at Per Se, here playing Dwayne Wade to Mr. Slover’s LeBron James."
I'll fight you for him, Balk.
(p.s. These new editing capabilities allowed me to see that the Times had actually misspelled "Dwayne." For shame, Times!)
(Although it would have been funnier as I first read it: "Dwayne Wayne.")
“And Bjoern Boettcher, the pastry chef, did not come to Ciano to loaf.”