After recently being told about a stand of peach trees in a remote corner of Queens, I was invited to visit-under the conditions that I not disclose the neighborhood in question or the identity of my source. I was informed that I would have to drive: many parts of New York City are not accessible by public transportation, and this was one of them. As for directions, you may or may not be relieved to learn that Google Maps was not up to the task, and, had I followed its instructions, I would have been led into (and under) a reed-filled swamp on the southwestern shores of Brooklyn. Undeterred by this failure of the Internet, I followed a handwritten set of directions that I received in the mail.

In a delirium of heat and fatigue (one that will be familiar to anyone who has endured any portion of this eternal summer), I left Washington Heights and eventually crossed seven bridges, five railroad trestles, six islands (including three apparently never before seen on any map of New York City, and which were almost as big as Manhattan, albeit populated only by forests of 200-foot virgin oaks, an array of songbirds and a few stray cats), and finally passed through a serpentine series of one-way streets lined with increasingly ornate but decrepit mansions.

I stopped the car, rolled down the window, and (along with the strains of an unseen player piano) detected a sweet aroma that called to mind the peach pies my grandfather used to bake when I was a child. (It was his signature dish.) I parked and tried to orient myself according to the street numbers, which turned out to be an exercise in futility. As was later explained to me, numerical addresses in Queens are assigned to houses at random, and often include dashes, symbols and decimal points that are indecipherable except to those who have studied the system for years, if not decades.

I spotted a peach tree. Gnarled, broken-limbed, and situated in a sloping lawn of dry, yellowed grass, the tree nevertheless dripped with ripening fruit. The peaches were not the grotesquely huge specimens-like big baby heads-that you find in gourmet delis and supermarkets but were the size of a large apricot. I could not resist reaching up to touch one, and without any resistance it fell into my palm. My host appeared as if by magic and without any introduction told me I should eat the fruit. I bit into it, and was amazed not only by the sweet taste but also the firm consistency of the flesh. (Is there anything worse than a mealy peach?)

My host subsequently took me on a tour, and as we walked along the streets and then into the alleys behind the streets, the surrounding yards of each subsequent house was adorned with more and more peach trees, from which an infinite number of peaches hung (and sparkled) like stars on a clear summer night. (Not that I would know about that lately.) My head swam with the promise of fresh peaches, peach cobbler, smoked peaches, grilled peaches, fresh peach ice cream, peach liqueur, peachy bread pudding, peach slump, peach salsa, caramelized peaches (with sweet ricotta) and cold peach strawberry soup.

"Do you know where these peach trees came from?" I asked, after I remembered that I was technically on assignment and expected to deliver some hard facts to interested readers. "No clue," said my host, "but I know who does." We stopped at a nearby real estate office, where the managing agent informed us that his grandfather had a century earlier brought saplings to the neighborhood from a small island-half Italian and half Croatian-in the Adriatic Sea, and that the rest were cultivated from these original trees. In the old days, he continued, there used to be a parade each summer to celebrate the harvest.
"Why did it stop?" I asked.
"It didn't, really," he said, but went on to confess that most of the remaining marchers were ghostly souls returned to earth after expressing disappointment with the nectar of the gods.
Matthew Gallaway is a writer who lives in Washington Heights. This is where you can learn about The Metropolis Case, his first novel.

Matthew Gallaway. You made going to find peaches sound like crossing the Afghani border to procure extremely high grade heroin.
I commend you.
No, nothing is worse than a mealy peach. Ripe peaches off trees give meaning to an otherwise barren life.
i know where oakland's secret quince grove is.
I read that sentence, then immediately started planning a trip from LA to Oakland for the fall. Can you share info?
haha, sorry to be a letdown, it's actually just my backyard and it's a bit of a mess beacause, at some point, somebody thought they could kill them by simply cutting them down. as a result, it's more like a giant quince sprout shrub than the trees it should be. that said, if you want some of my preserves i'd be happy to send them.
also, i live in the fruitvale district so, most likely, the pear and quince trees that are in my backyard were part of a larger grove before they were broken up by houses. there may very well be a secret quince grove somewhere out here.
As long as there's still hope of a secret quince grove in Oakland then I'm not too let down. I love me some quince.
http://forageoakland.blogspot.com/
San Jose has a small orchard that produces an insane array of stone fruit in the middle of several awful housing developments. I found it last time I was home. It felt like an archeological discovery.
Orchards and groves -> awful developments summarizes much of what has happened in California.
In SoCal it often citrus groves that are the remnants or ghosts.
Northern California it's anything from olives to stone fruits. I hate going home and seeing the stucco monstrosities sitting where orchards used to grow.
Nothing better than a perfect peach. And eating a nice, juicy, sweet peach makes me horny, for certain reasons.
And conversely, a mealy peach only gives you an inverted food boner.
Marvelous. Thank you for this.
Where there are fruit trees in unexpected places, there are old Italian men. Invariably.
Beautiful tree, and I have to say the address system sounds charming as well.
I hope NYC has some kind of registry for important trees.
This is wonderful.
The drug dealer two houses down from mine in Bushwick has the most astonishingly beautiful peach tree in his back yard. Sometimes, I stand on my back porch and stare longingly at the fruits on the tree, so massive that the branches droop from the weight.
Bastard doesn't know what he's got.
This is just like Rapunzel!!!
I know where there's a secret pear tree in the West Village, but I haven't worked up the nerve to pick one yet. Maybe I will know. What a gorgeous, beautiful story.
Thanks for reminding me of a very good semi-public peach tree near me in Astoria! And Oudemia, v. true re: Italian men and fruit trees.
This made me so happy. I ate the mealiest, most awful peach this week.
Sorry, New York, no map for you. But LA and environs, here are your treasure maps.
http://www.fallenfruit.org/index.php/media/maps/
What kind of mishegas is this? I know of a lemon tree on Coney Island, and in my own Downtown Brooklyn neighborhood I know of a peach three and a pear tree within blocks of me.
The rub is... This stuff is growing in NYC soil. And I would not trust a steady diet of anything grown in the street soil here.