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Wednesday, July 22, 2009

15

Carroll Gardens, Then And Now

New York City"Unlike many of the burgeoning brownstone revival districts of Brooklyn-Brooklyn Heights, to begin with, then Cobble Hill, then Boerum Hill, now Park Slope-the Carroll Gardens neighborhood (Carroll Park, two blocks away, provides the name) did not require a renaissance," proclaimed New York magazine on Dec. 31, 1974. "Since its first occupancy by Italian families, it has remained in single-family occupancy, by and large. An unrenovated house on President Street might be bought for about $50,000, if (and this is a very big if) one came on the market."

Today, the vestiges of this once almost wholly Italian neighborhood are in the social clubs, behind anonymous doors; restaurants like Sam's, at Court and Baltic; and Damian Hair Styling, the wood-paneled barber shop on Court near Third Place; and the Scotto Funeral Home, at Court and First Place, opened by Patsy and Rose Scotto in 1926. Now the funeral home is run by their son, Salvatore "Buddy" Scotto, a longtime fixture in the neighborhood political scene, who has for years allowed community groups and other political organizations to meet there. In January 2008, the Carroll Gardens Neighborhood Association announced it would be moving its meetings to nearby St. Mary's Church, partly because of Mr. Scotto's controversial stance on the rezoning of the Gowanus Canal area; Mr. Scotto was in favor, while many of the newer residents were opposed. (Still, as one former Brooklyn Paper reporter recalled, holding meetings at the funeral home was always pleasant because Mr. Scotto provided comfortable seating and free coffee.)

But Mr. Scotto's devotion to redeveloping the Gowanus Canal area is nothing new. In fact, as the New York Times noted in September 1969, the Carroll Gardens Association, as it was then called, led by Mr. Scotto, had in the previous year hired an architect to work on a redevelopment plan for the canal.

"Carroll Gardens is a new name for one of the oldest neighborhoods in Brooklyn," the Times reported. "Until five years ago the 60-block area of tree-lined streets and privately owned brownstones was usually considered part of the larger, predominantly Negro neighborhood of Red Hook."

And so a group of second- and third-generation Italian-Americans, led by Mr. Scotto, decided to rename their part of the neighborhood in 1964. There was already a Carroll Street stop on the old IND subway, and a Carroll Park, and so this group decided to start calling themselves the Carroll Gardens Association, and then the real estate brokers started using it, and then it stuck.

As Mrs. Agnes Bianco ("a blond mother of three boys") told the reporter: "A few years ago, when I tried to take a cab home from my sister's on Ocean Avenue, the driver would ask me where Third Place was and I would say Red Hook. Sometimes the driver would refuse to take me. Now I say Carroll Gardens and there's no problem."

But despite the name change, the neighborhood still had problems-and many of them were connected to the Gowanus Canal, the fetid body of water that Mr. Scotto would still be obsessed with 40 years later. "Look at this," Mr. Scotto told the Times back in 1969. "Here we are 30 minutes from the heart of Manhattan, and what do we have? A miserable, stinking parking lot."

And Mrs. Bianco added: "I could just see my kids enjoying the canal, playing around it, seeing fish instead of garbage in it. They'd come and stand with their mouths open if it's anything like the way I picture it."

But even back then, the plan for the canal's redevelopment was running into obstacles. For one, the area, which was zoned for manufacturing, provided 11,400 jobs. For another, the housing component of the plan, as envisioned by the neighborhood association, would be integrated public housing. "The possibility of an influx of nonwhites into the area worries many residents of this solidly white, working-class area. They are cautious about expressing themselves on racial issues. They say, instead, that the neighborhood is too small to support a high school, or that they fear a 'wild crowd' in the area."

Previously: Sweet Georgia Brown, Of Arthur's Tavern

15 Comments / Post A Comment

sigerson
sigerson (#179)

I can't believe I got through the server storm to read this. Awesome!

p.s. - loved the New Yorker piece as well!

SarahHeartburn

Sam's is still there? Linguini with white clam sauce from heaven.

CaptainFantastic

And a Coke with no ice?

MarkNYC
MarkNYC (#394)

Nicely done. I have the feeling that even your shopping lists are well-written.

BadUncle
BadUncle (#153)

Great article, Doree. FWIW, though, a few of my neighbors in Carroll Gardens still converse on the sidewalks in Italian. And they insist the neighborhood was originally Norwegian, then Irish, then Italian.

Tulletilsynet
Tulletilsynet (#333)

Can confirm on the Norwegians, who moved on to Bay Ridge before evaporating. Sunny's Bar in Red Hook is Norwegian-owned but that's a later development.

Tulletilsynet
Tulletilsynet (#333)

Now I wish Doree would interview Scotto and a lot of family members during visitation at the funeral home ... Also, how can I get dibs on one of those integrated public housing units on the filled-in Gowanus? And what will they name the reclaimed valley where the canal is now? Park Slump?

atipofthehat
atipofthehat (#797)

Doree, I hope you'll be making these into a book. With pictures!

Baroness
Baroness (#273)

Appreciate this. I am elderly now at 40, but my post art school residence was Carroll Gardens for a bit, 1992-93. But really it seemed more Red Hook, a 15 minute trek from the subway, over the BQE overpass. You passed the charming houses and the delicious italian food shops, but once you went over the overpass, it was different. Close to the river, just a roomie in my friend's loft, it was rougher and more industrial. And in that icy winter, a 15 minute walk was more daunting than it sounds.

Our landlady who owned the building was a charming African-American lady whose Italian husband I had heard, was in the clink for 8 years. We lived 2 floors above a garage where men in tuxedos would sometimes be moving luxury vehicles in and out at 3 am. No one asked anything. Weirdly, if felt safer.
Old-school Mafia sorts are incredibly courteous dealing with civilians. At the pizza place on Court St, an older gent would loudly exclaim how he was going to saw the cock off of some Jersey bastard and stuff it down his throat. But then he'd gallantly hold the door for me with a smile, "How are ya dear".

Best of my time there was the roof. Manhattan right there like a postcard, neglected Governer's Island even closer. Twin Towers gleaming strong in sunset. My favorite memory is going up to that roof in a heavy snowstorm, after a few puffs, as the arty party continued in our place. Manhattan seemed to gleam like a jewel, fluffed with snow, a stage set, or a snow-globe.

Carroll Gardens didn't work out for me, ultimately. My Spanish photographer friend came and I helped him hang one of the very first shows ever at the Oransanz Foundation on the LES in 92. But hosting him , local Italian teenagers in Carroll Gardens threw ice at him, harrassed him, called him a faggot, just for walking to my house. Well, he was, but..

Sorry for the longass reminiscence . Carroll Gardens is really lovely. Apologize for my windy impressions, but it was a memorable time in my life, living there. Great work, Doree.

CaptainFantastic

Don't apologize. It was a lovely read.

BeRightBack
BeRightBack (#59)

What I really love about these columns is the way they make their points so subtly, yet effortlessly - I never quite know where the comparisons you make are going as I wind my way through them, until it sneaks up on me somewhere in the last sentence and I'm like, "Oh...Oh!"

mathnet
mathnet (#27)

STRONGLY WANT MORE

Tulletilsynet
Tulletilsynet (#333)

yeah boy

KarenUhOh
KarenUhOh (#19)

Splendidly talented writer working a consistently absorbing subject. Cream rises.

tralafel
tralafel (#1,221)

This 100% made my day. Yes, it's been a slow day, but still! Greatness.

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